Ramadan

When I planned this trip, I did not realize I would be traveling during Ramadan. After realizing, I didn't know what, if any, difference that would make.
It really is quite fascinating. For those of you unfamiliar, Ramadan is 1 month out of the year where Muslims fast (no food OR water) all day. It's a time of prayer and my guide told me yesterday, a learning of patience. There is the call to prayer throughout the day, but no prayer mats, here in Egypt at least. Several carry prayer beads to continue praying throughout the day. Most of the population seem to just change their schedule, be up most of the night and sleep most of the day. This makes sense to me, especially because it is so hot here. However some people still function!
Take for instance my guide the other day. He showed me around Valley of the kings and 3 different temples here. We were out in the sun walking around for about 6 hours. 6 hours in the sun with no water! I was kind of getting worried at the end - he was walking slowly and talking very quietly. Also it made me feel so guilty because of course I'm guzzling liters of water right in front of him! What torture! Too bad I didn't bring any IV equipment and bags of NS with me, in case he needed resucitation. Thankfully though, we both made it.
After the last call to prayer at the end of the day, approx 6 pm, they break fast. And then the city comes alive. I hardly see any locals out during the day, only those trying to haggle tourists (more to come on haggling later -- I'm getting very good at saying No!). The sun goes down and it's a party. Literally. The city council people put on this carnival style thing in the town square area -- there's music and dancing (hopefully I'll be able to post pictures soon), there's popcorn and carnival rides -- one of which was a small ferris wheel where the kids stood, unrestrained in the swinging boxes -- definitely would happen in the states. We were definitely the only tourists there. By "we" I mean myself and the 4 guys I met fron England who were all at least 6 feet. I felt perfectly safe despite the multitude of stares. It was fabulous.
I've got to run now and go catch the night train up to Cairo. Hopefully I will get on the right one even though my ticket is definitely written in Arabic and apparently the trains have no signs on them -- should be an adventure. But if I make it to Cairo, pyramids and camel rides tomorrow!