I have made it safely to Turkey. There will minimal problems crossing the border. Actually, they loved my passport picture. Not only do I have an extremely cheesy smile on in the photo, but since you're not allowed to smile in passport photos any more, it rather stands out. The Syrian immigration officer even started laughing a little. I like to think that I'm doing my part to improve international relations, one smile at a time.
It is amazing how crossing the border, just by a few hours, can change things so immensely. Suddenly I'm out of the desert and back in westernized civilization. Kids are wearing uniforms to school that show their knees and elbows. Women drive scooters all by themselves. The animals we pass don't look so scrawny. There is vegetation and trees, not just sand and rocks. There was even an automatic paper towel dispenser at the restaurant I ate in last night. I hardly know what to do with myself!
Although it's still very different from home, the culture is at least somewhat familiar. I am very thankful for it.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Monday, September 28, 2009
A Restaurant with a View
Normally if you ask me, "Liz, what's the best marriage offer you've had recently?" I would not have a very exciting answer to that question.
Oh, there is the occasional crazy or drugged-up guy at the hospital who'll propose. But it's not really that often, and usually it's more repulsive than anything else.
Recently however, I have had several offers so I thought I'd share with you the best ones. Let me first explain that men in the Middle East are different than at home. They are up front. One morning they may decide they feel like being married. The search then begins. If they see you and think you're pretty, talk to you for five minutes and think you're nice, then that may be enough. They'll tell you what they've got to offer and see what you think. And do you mind living in the same house as their other 1, 2, or 3 wives. (4 is the max any good Muslim man would have.)
A racing camel was the offer in one proposal. You may think that is not much, but apparently they are worth around $25,000 plus whatever they win in races.
My favorite offer however came from the owner of a restaurant we ate at a few nights ago in Syria. It was in the town of Crac des Chevaliers - a small little mountain town named after the castle there. The restaurant sits on one edge of the valley and overlooks the castle across on the other side.
So the owner was a nice guys. He's an established business man who speaks 8 languages, which is pretty impressive on it's own. When he found that I wasn't married and didn't "have engagement," he offered me the restaurant as my wedding gift.
I laughingly admitted it was the best offer I'd had - I'm flattered, thank you, but no. When he pursued it, I told him I'd have to wait and ask my dad. The next morning though, I went for a walk, and as I went by the restraunt, the sun was just rising over the castle across the valley. It was one of the most beautiful things I've seen. Maybe I should rethink. I do have his card and number. . .
Oh, there is the occasional crazy or drugged-up guy at the hospital who'll propose. But it's not really that often, and usually it's more repulsive than anything else.
Recently however, I have had several offers so I thought I'd share with you the best ones. Let me first explain that men in the Middle East are different than at home. They are up front. One morning they may decide they feel like being married. The search then begins. If they see you and think you're pretty, talk to you for five minutes and think you're nice, then that may be enough. They'll tell you what they've got to offer and see what you think. And do you mind living in the same house as their other 1, 2, or 3 wives. (4 is the max any good Muslim man would have.)
A racing camel was the offer in one proposal. You may think that is not much, but apparently they are worth around $25,000 plus whatever they win in races.
My favorite offer however came from the owner of a restaurant we ate at a few nights ago in Syria. It was in the town of Crac des Chevaliers - a small little mountain town named after the castle there. The restaurant sits on one edge of the valley and overlooks the castle across on the other side.
So the owner was a nice guys. He's an established business man who speaks 8 languages, which is pretty impressive on it's own. When he found that I wasn't married and didn't "have engagement," he offered me the restaurant as my wedding gift.
I laughingly admitted it was the best offer I'd had - I'm flattered, thank you, but no. When he pursued it, I told him I'd have to wait and ask my dad. The next morning though, I went for a walk, and as I went by the restraunt, the sun was just rising over the castle across the valley. It was one of the most beautiful things I've seen. Maybe I should rethink. I do have his card and number. . .
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Standing out in the Crowd
I have never been a novelty in my life . . . until now. Suddenly, I have become an anomaly on several fronts. I have found that not many Americans come to this part of the world because everyone is very surprised to hear where I am from as opposed to the usual response of "oh, another Texan."
I am now traveling with a group of several Australians. They think my accent and vocabulary are so entertaining. They love to ask me questions about American politics (which I feel highly underqualified to answer), about what we eat and drink, about what we think on different issues. Do I live on a ranch and ride a horse? Is life in America like in the movies?
I have never thought of my life as that interesting - I'm pretty much you're average girl. But not anymore. And really it's quite entertaining because I feel the same way about them - their accent, slang and speech, their lifestyle.
Apart from this, I am also a novelty traveling in this part of the world. In case you didn't know, I have blonde hair. That in itself is enough to draw stares. And because staring is not considered impolite in this part of the world, they do it quite openly. I have tried to blend in - wear a scarf over my hair, learn the language, use appropriate mannerisms. But no matter what I do people stare ALL the time.
Well today I decided to rebel and give them a reason to stare. I went for a run. You would have thought I was running in the nude for all the attention I got (just to clarify, I was wearing culturally appropriate, baggy, covered ankles to elbows clothing). People honked, yelled, whistled. Children ran alongside me. Women smiled. Not in a demeaning or insulting way - I think they just honestly had never seen anyone go for a run before, much less a woman. People even moved out of my way on the sidewalk, probably because they didn't know what else to do.
So I have now done my part for the women's rights movement, at least here in Madaba, Jordan. But I figure if I'm going to stand out in the crowd, may as well do it with style.
Tomorrow I am crossing the border into Syria. Apparently facebook, blogs, you tube and things like that are all blocked throughout the country. I'm not sure how that works, but it should be interesting. Anyway, all that to say, you won't be hearing from me for the next week or so. I'll let you know when I make it to the other side. Until then, happy travels!
I am now traveling with a group of several Australians. They think my accent and vocabulary are so entertaining. They love to ask me questions about American politics (which I feel highly underqualified to answer), about what we eat and drink, about what we think on different issues. Do I live on a ranch and ride a horse? Is life in America like in the movies?
I have never thought of my life as that interesting - I'm pretty much you're average girl. But not anymore. And really it's quite entertaining because I feel the same way about them - their accent, slang and speech, their lifestyle.
Apart from this, I am also a novelty traveling in this part of the world. In case you didn't know, I have blonde hair. That in itself is enough to draw stares. And because staring is not considered impolite in this part of the world, they do it quite openly. I have tried to blend in - wear a scarf over my hair, learn the language, use appropriate mannerisms. But no matter what I do people stare ALL the time.
Well today I decided to rebel and give them a reason to stare. I went for a run. You would have thought I was running in the nude for all the attention I got (just to clarify, I was wearing culturally appropriate, baggy, covered ankles to elbows clothing). People honked, yelled, whistled. Children ran alongside me. Women smiled. Not in a demeaning or insulting way - I think they just honestly had never seen anyone go for a run before, much less a woman. People even moved out of my way on the sidewalk, probably because they didn't know what else to do.
So I have now done my part for the women's rights movement, at least here in Madaba, Jordan. But I figure if I'm going to stand out in the crowd, may as well do it with style.
Tomorrow I am crossing the border into Syria. Apparently facebook, blogs, you tube and things like that are all blocked throughout the country. I'm not sure how that works, but it should be interesting. Anyway, all that to say, you won't be hearing from me for the next week or so. I'll let you know when I make it to the other side. Until then, happy travels!
The Land of Indiana Jones
Have you seen Indiana Jones - The Last Crusade? If not, go rent it. That is where I have been the past few days. The end of the movie, they go into this place that's carved into a cliff wall. It's called Petra.
The land has been occupied by many different people groups, including the biblical Edomits. Later, in the 6th century AD, Arabic nomads known as the Nabataeans lived in this land and built this beautiful city and tombs into the cliffs there.
To enter the area, you walk 2 km from the visitor center in through this beautiful gorge. When you get to the end, glimpses of the treasury begin to come into view. At the risk of sounding cheesy, I have to admit that it's sort of magical the way it appears in front of you.
But it's not just that one "structure." They built all through this gorge and the surrounding mountainsides and valleys. The expanse of it is truely amazing. I spent 2 days climbing thousands of stairs to expore different areas and didn't come close to seeing it all.
One of my favorite areas was the monestary, which was way up in a hillside.
From there you could climb up to a lookout point where I saw this sign.
The view from there looked over Israel. I found that somewhat curious.
I am no Idiana Jones. I didn't ride off into the sunset on my horse, but I feel like a Petra explorer all the same.
PS I added some pics to my post about the desert so check them out. Hope you enjoy!
The land has been occupied by many different people groups, including the biblical Edomits. Later, in the 6th century AD, Arabic nomads known as the Nabataeans lived in this land and built this beautiful city and tombs into the cliffs there.
To enter the area, you walk 2 km from the visitor center in through this beautiful gorge. When you get to the end, glimpses of the treasury begin to come into view. At the risk of sounding cheesy, I have to admit that it's sort of magical the way it appears in front of you.
But it's not just that one "structure." They built all through this gorge and the surrounding mountainsides and valleys. The expanse of it is truely amazing. I spent 2 days climbing thousands of stairs to expore different areas and didn't come close to seeing it all.
One of my favorite areas was the monestary, which was way up in a hillside.
From there you could climb up to a lookout point where I saw this sign.
The view from there looked over Israel. I found that somewhat curious.
I am no Idiana Jones. I didn't ride off into the sunset on my horse, but I feel like a Petra explorer all the same.
PS I added some pics to my post about the desert so check them out. Hope you enjoy!
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Covered in Mud
Today I stopped at the Dead Sea. It is the second saltiest body of water in the world. Because of the high concentration of salt, the water seemingly becomes extra viscous, and you become extra bouyant. Once you get about chest deep in the water, you can hardly help but start floating. It was like I was on a raft, floating on my back without any effort at all.
It is good to know though that the extra saltiness of the water also makes it extra painful to get in your eyes or in any wound you didn't realize you had. The other day climbing around at Petra (will write more about that later), I slightly scraped my knee. I didn't realize it had actually cut through the skin until today when it began to burn like crazy as the salt cleaned it out.
The Dead Sea is also apparently very rich in minerals and so for a small price you can slather yourself in the mud mined from deep in the sea. Supposedly it is a rejuvinator and can make you look years younger.
I think they should give me a comission because when I got there, no one on the beach was putting on mud. I decided to go for it and covered myself in this tar-like stuff from head to foot (will try to post pics) and pranced around on the beach waiting for it to dry. By the time I left, there was a line at the mud bins -- I started the trend! :o) So now dirty, but refreshed and looking 10 years younger, I am ready for the next adventure.
It is good to know though that the extra saltiness of the water also makes it extra painful to get in your eyes or in any wound you didn't realize you had. The other day climbing around at Petra (will write more about that later), I slightly scraped my knee. I didn't realize it had actually cut through the skin until today when it began to burn like crazy as the salt cleaned it out.
The Dead Sea is also apparently very rich in minerals and so for a small price you can slather yourself in the mud mined from deep in the sea. Supposedly it is a rejuvinator and can make you look years younger.
I think they should give me a comission because when I got there, no one on the beach was putting on mud. I decided to go for it and covered myself in this tar-like stuff from head to foot (will try to post pics) and pranced around on the beach waiting for it to dry. By the time I left, there was a line at the mud bins -- I started the trend! :o) So now dirty, but refreshed and looking 10 years younger, I am ready for the next adventure.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Where Land Cruisers come to Die
I found the place where Land Cruisers come to die -- the Jordinian desert of Wadi Rum.
The other day we drove to the visitor center of Wadi Rum where we were met by the shiek who would be our host for the night at his desert camp. He and two of his tribesman met us with their old-school, very beaten up, but still beautiful, Land Cruisers. We threw our bags in the back, drove through the little village (littered with more old Land Cruisers) to where the road ended and headed off into the desert.
Still barren like the Egyptian desert, but here the sand has a red color with great monolith rock formations rising up out of it. Somehow there is a beauty in the emptiness. A breeze kept the heat from weighing on us as we drove out through the sand. We saw the Seven Pillars of Wisdom (go rent the old film Lawrence of Arabia), climbed a sand dune, and saw ancient inscriptions that served as maps to the caravans passing through. It's amazing how a land that seems to have nothing in it can still have so much history hidden away.
That night we stayed in the sheik's camp and slept under the stars, watching satellites and shooting stars pass us by. When you marvel at the greatness of what God has created, you suddenly feel very small -- I think that is a good thing.
We used heavy goat hair blankets that had a certain stench in the morning when the dew had made them damp. As my new friend from Australia put it, "It smells like 70 bloody camels pissed on me!" Quite a lovely aroma to wake up to.
We watched the sun rise over the horizon and headed back to civilization. What an experience. And I must say, if I were an old Land Cruiser, that's exactly where I'd choose to be.
The other day we drove to the visitor center of Wadi Rum where we were met by the shiek who would be our host for the night at his desert camp. He and two of his tribesman met us with their old-school, very beaten up, but still beautiful, Land Cruisers. We threw our bags in the back, drove through the little village (littered with more old Land Cruisers) to where the road ended and headed off into the desert.
Still barren like the Egyptian desert, but here the sand has a red color with great monolith rock formations rising up out of it. Somehow there is a beauty in the emptiness. A breeze kept the heat from weighing on us as we drove out through the sand. We saw the Seven Pillars of Wisdom (go rent the old film Lawrence of Arabia), climbed a sand dune, and saw ancient inscriptions that served as maps to the caravans passing through. It's amazing how a land that seems to have nothing in it can still have so much history hidden away.
That night we stayed in the sheik's camp and slept under the stars, watching satellites and shooting stars pass us by. When you marvel at the greatness of what God has created, you suddenly feel very small -- I think that is a good thing.
We used heavy goat hair blankets that had a certain stench in the morning when the dew had made them damp. As my new friend from Australia put it, "It smells like 70 bloody camels pissed on me!" Quite a lovely aroma to wake up to.
We watched the sun rise over the horizon and headed back to civilization. What an experience. And I must say, if I were an old Land Cruiser, that's exactly where I'd choose to be.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Driving across the Desert
So from Cairo, I headed by bus under the Suez Canal and into the Sinai Peninsula. It's amazing that 90% on Egypt's population lives within 10 miles of the Nile. Outside that, there's just desert. Just imagine nothing. Then add some rocks and sand and a lot of heat. That's about it. Sort of makes driving across west Texas look like a rain forest.
Seven hours later we got to Mt Sinai and climbed it that afternoon. Thankfully the shadow of the mtn made the heat bearable. Got to the top just in time for sunset which was pretty awesome to see.
However, at the top were also guys trying to sell you silly souveneirs -- they're everywhere in Egypt. It's kind of ridiculous.
When I looked out at the most barren land I've ever seen and imagined Moses leading some 600,000 people across it, I have to admit I probably would have complained and asked for water as well. Yet there are people who make a life out in the middle of this desert. I'm just thankful I'm not one of them. Can definitely cross that off my list of places to live.
Seven hours later we got to Mt Sinai and climbed it that afternoon. Thankfully the shadow of the mtn made the heat bearable. Got to the top just in time for sunset which was pretty awesome to see.
However, at the top were also guys trying to sell you silly souveneirs -- they're everywhere in Egypt. It's kind of ridiculous.
When I looked out at the most barren land I've ever seen and imagined Moses leading some 600,000 people across it, I have to admit I probably would have complained and asked for water as well. Yet there are people who make a life out in the middle of this desert. I'm just thankful I'm not one of them. Can definitely cross that off my list of places to live.
Sea Urchins and Saudi Arabia
After crossing the desert, we came to the coast of the Red Sea and stayed in a little beach camp. Accommodations were a little bamboo hut on the beach - one room with a mat on the floor and mosquito net over it. Surprisingly it was quite fabulous -- a nice breeze blowing and the sound of the ocean for background music. I even went snorkeling out from the beach. I was slightly terrified at times and the Jaws theme song constantly ran through my mind (thank you Kristen). But besides that, it was great.
I followed beautiful corral out until the ledge dropped off. Then there was nothing but big blue ocean. That's when I panicked a little because big open water is where the big scary sharks are. Thankfully those little minnow fish were swimming all around me. I decided they would swim off if there were any signs of danger just like in Finding Nemo. So as long as they stuck around I was ok.
However when I swam back in to shore, tide had dropped some so that I was much closer to the corral before. This wouldn't really be a problem except that the corral houses all these scary black sea urchin things that can sting you quite painfully. I sucked in my stomach and pictured myself like Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible dangling from a wire as I carefully made my way over them. Thankfully I made it back to shore without a mark -- 2 other girls were not so lucky.
This morning I woke up early and watched the sunrise over Saudi Arabia across the Gulf of Aqaba. I waved good morning. I'm sure they waved back.
Headed to Jordan next, through the desert again and on to Petra.
I followed beautiful corral out until the ledge dropped off. Then there was nothing but big blue ocean. That's when I panicked a little because big open water is where the big scary sharks are. Thankfully those little minnow fish were swimming all around me. I decided they would swim off if there were any signs of danger just like in Finding Nemo. So as long as they stuck around I was ok.
However when I swam back in to shore, tide had dropped some so that I was much closer to the corral before. This wouldn't really be a problem except that the corral houses all these scary black sea urchin things that can sting you quite painfully. I sucked in my stomach and pictured myself like Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible dangling from a wire as I carefully made my way over them. Thankfully I made it back to shore without a mark -- 2 other girls were not so lucky.
This morning I woke up early and watched the sunrise over Saudi Arabia across the Gulf of Aqaba. I waved good morning. I'm sure they waved back.
Headed to Jordan next, through the desert again and on to Petra.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
The Art of Haggling
Today I went to the bazaar. At the Cairo bazaar all tourists now have to check in and give their nationality upon entering the area. When they heard I was American, I was assigned an escort. It was hilarious - for several hours wandering around I had a man in a suit with a walkie-talkie right behind me. That must be what famous people feel like - I've never felt so important in my life.
I thought I would share a few things I've learned over the years about bazaars, markets, and haggling. Maybe the will keep one of you from wasting money as I have in the past.
If you do not want to be hassled, keep eyes straight ahead, don't smile, don't respond to anyone, and most importantly keep moving. Any of these things are an invitation for people to try to sell you things. You will feel rude but know that you have to behave like this unless you want people to follow you for blocks (literally).
A very useful trick is to use are to wear sunglasses. This is a big one because it allows you to look at merchandise without them seeing, and you look less inviting.
Ok, so at some point you may want to stop -- know that when you do, you will be addressed. And the person whose stall it is, is usually not the one sitting right by it. They are probably across the street or something. This used to surprise me, and they definitely use it to their advantage.
Know that anything you touch, they will try to sell you. If you touch something, pick up something else and then ask them about that thing, somewhere in the conversation they will mention the thing you first touched -- by trying to sell it to you as well, as an alternative cheaper purchase, or possibly as a comparison of value/craftmanship. Be prepared for this because it can throw you off.
In haggling, your first offer should be no more than half their first price. There are exceptions to this if you have been pricing an item or have some knowledge of what the true cost/value is. From there go up slowly. Never, NEVER pay more than 75% of their first price, but usually it should be around 60.
Never find something you MUST have -- they can tell. Always be ready to walk away, and good practice is to start to walk away at least once at the end of the bargaining to assure they won't go any lower. Another good tactic to make them think they're losing and must go lower is to look upset and put the item back in their hands or set it down.
Lastly is the 3 no's rule. This is a new technique I've just started using on this trip but has been reliable so far. I started doing this because it is tiring to have my angry/don't mess with me face on all the time. So here is what I do: if I want to enjoy the market, but not be bothered. I lose the sunglasses and walk slower, though still moving. When I am approached I give only a slight smile, say no thank you, and keep moving. When they continue, lose the smile but keep a neutral voice and just say no, possibly with a hand motion. As always, keep moving. If they continue after that or begin to walk with you, stop, look them in the eye (no fear), and give them a good "No" in your stern/ don't mess with me. When you address them frankly and do not get frazzled it turns the tables and catches them off guard. I even got an apology from one guy yesterday. Impressive, I know.
So that's the basics - whether you're in Egypt, Thailand or Italy, it's pretty much stays the same. I hope this will keep you from feeling overwhelmed or at their mercy, especially from losing all your money to overpay for things. Happy haggling.
As a side note: tomorrow I head to Mt Sinai, the Red Sea, and more primitive areas. You will probably not hear from me in a few days. If there's nothing in the next week, some one call the embassy. :o)
I thought I would share a few things I've learned over the years about bazaars, markets, and haggling. Maybe the will keep one of you from wasting money as I have in the past.
If you do not want to be hassled, keep eyes straight ahead, don't smile, don't respond to anyone, and most importantly keep moving. Any of these things are an invitation for people to try to sell you things. You will feel rude but know that you have to behave like this unless you want people to follow you for blocks (literally).
A very useful trick is to use are to wear sunglasses. This is a big one because it allows you to look at merchandise without them seeing, and you look less inviting.
Ok, so at some point you may want to stop -- know that when you do, you will be addressed. And the person whose stall it is, is usually not the one sitting right by it. They are probably across the street or something. This used to surprise me, and they definitely use it to their advantage.
Know that anything you touch, they will try to sell you. If you touch something, pick up something else and then ask them about that thing, somewhere in the conversation they will mention the thing you first touched -- by trying to sell it to you as well, as an alternative cheaper purchase, or possibly as a comparison of value/craftmanship. Be prepared for this because it can throw you off.
In haggling, your first offer should be no more than half their first price. There are exceptions to this if you have been pricing an item or have some knowledge of what the true cost/value is. From there go up slowly. Never, NEVER pay more than 75% of their first price, but usually it should be around 60.
Never find something you MUST have -- they can tell. Always be ready to walk away, and good practice is to start to walk away at least once at the end of the bargaining to assure they won't go any lower. Another good tactic to make them think they're losing and must go lower is to look upset and put the item back in their hands or set it down.
Lastly is the 3 no's rule. This is a new technique I've just started using on this trip but has been reliable so far. I started doing this because it is tiring to have my angry/don't mess with me face on all the time. So here is what I do: if I want to enjoy the market, but not be bothered. I lose the sunglasses and walk slower, though still moving. When I am approached I give only a slight smile, say no thank you, and keep moving. When they continue, lose the smile but keep a neutral voice and just say no, possibly with a hand motion. As always, keep moving. If they continue after that or begin to walk with you, stop, look them in the eye (no fear), and give them a good "No" in your stern/ don't mess with me. When you address them frankly and do not get frazzled it turns the tables and catches them off guard. I even got an apology from one guy yesterday. Impressive, I know.
So that's the basics - whether you're in Egypt, Thailand or Italy, it's pretty much stays the same. I hope this will keep you from feeling overwhelmed or at their mercy, especially from losing all your money to overpay for things. Happy haggling.
As a side note: tomorrow I head to Mt Sinai, the Red Sea, and more primitive areas. You will probably not hear from me in a few days. If there's nothing in the next week, some one call the embassy. :o)
Walk Like an Egyptian
As you can guess, I stand out a little over here. Maybe it's the bikini I'm walking around in or maybe it's the blonde hair. :) Either way, I have had quite a few stares, whistles, hisses (not exactly sure what that means), and cat calls. The best however was last night while I was walking home. As this man walked by he said, "You walk like an Egyptian." I have no idea how an Egyptian walks, but I took it as a compliment and the song has been running through my head all day.
Anyway, I actually found a computer with a USB port so let's see if we can get some pictures posted. There should be pics from Hatshepsut's temple n(I know that's not spelled right), Luxor temple at night, Karnak temple, the band and dancers we found at the night festival, me on the scary camel, and the spynx.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Navigational Errors and Camel Terrors
We're not going to say that I got lost today. To be fair, I never really knew where I was to begin with so we'll just say that I didn't find my way as easily as expected. It started with me getting off at the wrong train station -- silly me for getting off at Cairo when that is where I want to go.
Thankfully I met this wonderful woman from Canada who had been through Cairo already. She helped me get onto the metro (apparently the only efficiently running thing in Cairo), and I was on my way again.
However there comes a point when you have to get off the metro. You come above ground, and for a second you panic. At least I do. There's this realization that no one and nothing looks familiar, not even the lettering on signs, and you could get very lost very quickly. But then you take a deep breath, say a prayer, and start to work your way through it.
The annoying thing about nice little hostels is that they're hidden away and very difficult to find. I narrowed it down to the right vacinity but then came the wandering. Took about 40 min and stopping to ask several people.
Just as a side note -- most people tend to be nice to foreigners. They want to help, but this means they will NEVER EVER tell you they don't know where a place is. I even had a guy today pointing left while telling me to go right -- fabulous.
But still, I made it one piece, and I learned that it is a very good incentive to not buy stuff when you realize you have to carry it around on your back for the next 2 months. I was nearly cursing the handmade vase I bought yesterday for adding a single pound to my pack.
Then came the camels. I can now cross riding a camel past the pyramids off my "to do" list and add it to my "don't need to repeat" list. I went to the Giza pyramids and of course camelback is the only way to see the pyramids. :) Don't get me wrong, the pyramids were awesome, though very touristy. But camels are weird and a little scary. I climbed on, and this kid about 7 yrs old grabbed the reigns and told me to hold on here and lean back. It began to stand while I held on for dear life, reminding myself "Lean back! Lean back!"
Probably sensing my fear, his head swung around while making this horrible noise. He had a hungry look in his eyes, and I though for a minute he was going to have a bite of my leg. Thankfully he decided I did not look that tasty and off we went.
So the kid leads me out until he decides it's the perfect picture place. So he drops the reigns, takes my camera and goes to get the perfectly framed shot. As I sit there trying to smile and look calm, I realize that no one is in control of this huge animal, and I have no training in how to respond if he takes off or tries to bite. Do I kick him in the mouth like a shark? Who knows.
All that to say I think we can safely cross camel trainer off as a possible job.
Thankfully I met this wonderful woman from Canada who had been through Cairo already. She helped me get onto the metro (apparently the only efficiently running thing in Cairo), and I was on my way again.
However there comes a point when you have to get off the metro. You come above ground, and for a second you panic. At least I do. There's this realization that no one and nothing looks familiar, not even the lettering on signs, and you could get very lost very quickly. But then you take a deep breath, say a prayer, and start to work your way through it.
The annoying thing about nice little hostels is that they're hidden away and very difficult to find. I narrowed it down to the right vacinity but then came the wandering. Took about 40 min and stopping to ask several people.
Just as a side note -- most people tend to be nice to foreigners. They want to help, but this means they will NEVER EVER tell you they don't know where a place is. I even had a guy today pointing left while telling me to go right -- fabulous.
But still, I made it one piece, and I learned that it is a very good incentive to not buy stuff when you realize you have to carry it around on your back for the next 2 months. I was nearly cursing the handmade vase I bought yesterday for adding a single pound to my pack.
Then came the camels. I can now cross riding a camel past the pyramids off my "to do" list and add it to my "don't need to repeat" list. I went to the Giza pyramids and of course camelback is the only way to see the pyramids. :) Don't get me wrong, the pyramids were awesome, though very touristy. But camels are weird and a little scary. I climbed on, and this kid about 7 yrs old grabbed the reigns and told me to hold on here and lean back. It began to stand while I held on for dear life, reminding myself "Lean back! Lean back!"
Probably sensing my fear, his head swung around while making this horrible noise. He had a hungry look in his eyes, and I though for a minute he was going to have a bite of my leg. Thankfully he decided I did not look that tasty and off we went.
So the kid leads me out until he decides it's the perfect picture place. So he drops the reigns, takes my camera and goes to get the perfectly framed shot. As I sit there trying to smile and look calm, I realize that no one is in control of this huge animal, and I have no training in how to respond if he takes off or tries to bite. Do I kick him in the mouth like a shark? Who knows.
All that to say I think we can safely cross camel trainer off as a possible job.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Ramadan
When I planned this trip, I did not realize I would be traveling during Ramadan. After realizing, I didn't know what, if any, difference that would make.
It really is quite fascinating. For those of you unfamiliar, Ramadan is 1 month out of the year where Muslims fast (no food OR water) all day. It's a time of prayer and my guide told me yesterday, a learning of patience. There is the call to prayer throughout the day, but no prayer mats, here in Egypt at least. Several carry prayer beads to continue praying throughout the day. Most of the population seem to just change their schedule, be up most of the night and sleep most of the day. This makes sense to me, especially because it is so hot here. However some people still function!
Take for instance my guide the other day. He showed me around Valley of the kings and 3 different temples here. We were out in the sun walking around for about 6 hours. 6 hours in the sun with no water! I was kind of getting worried at the end - he was walking slowly and talking very quietly. Also it made me feel so guilty because of course I'm guzzling liters of water right in front of him! What torture! Too bad I didn't bring any IV equipment and bags of NS with me, in case he needed resucitation. Thankfully though, we both made it.
After the last call to prayer at the end of the day, approx 6 pm, they break fast. And then the city comes alive. I hardly see any locals out during the day, only those trying to haggle tourists (more to come on haggling later -- I'm getting very good at saying No!). The sun goes down and it's a party. Literally. The city council people put on this carnival style thing in the town square area -- there's music and dancing (hopefully I'll be able to post pictures soon), there's popcorn and carnival rides -- one of which was a small ferris wheel where the kids stood, unrestrained in the swinging boxes -- definitely would happen in the states. We were definitely the only tourists there. By "we" I mean myself and the 4 guys I met fron England who were all at least 6 feet. I felt perfectly safe despite the multitude of stares. It was fabulous.
I've got to run now and go catch the night train up to Cairo. Hopefully I will get on the right one even though my ticket is definitely written in Arabic and apparently the trains have no signs on them -- should be an adventure. But if I make it to Cairo, pyramids and camel rides tomorrow!
It really is quite fascinating. For those of you unfamiliar, Ramadan is 1 month out of the year where Muslims fast (no food OR water) all day. It's a time of prayer and my guide told me yesterday, a learning of patience. There is the call to prayer throughout the day, but no prayer mats, here in Egypt at least. Several carry prayer beads to continue praying throughout the day. Most of the population seem to just change their schedule, be up most of the night and sleep most of the day. This makes sense to me, especially because it is so hot here. However some people still function!
Take for instance my guide the other day. He showed me around Valley of the kings and 3 different temples here. We were out in the sun walking around for about 6 hours. 6 hours in the sun with no water! I was kind of getting worried at the end - he was walking slowly and talking very quietly. Also it made me feel so guilty because of course I'm guzzling liters of water right in front of him! What torture! Too bad I didn't bring any IV equipment and bags of NS with me, in case he needed resucitation. Thankfully though, we both made it.
After the last call to prayer at the end of the day, approx 6 pm, they break fast. And then the city comes alive. I hardly see any locals out during the day, only those trying to haggle tourists (more to come on haggling later -- I'm getting very good at saying No!). The sun goes down and it's a party. Literally. The city council people put on this carnival style thing in the town square area -- there's music and dancing (hopefully I'll be able to post pictures soon), there's popcorn and carnival rides -- one of which was a small ferris wheel where the kids stood, unrestrained in the swinging boxes -- definitely would happen in the states. We were definitely the only tourists there. By "we" I mean myself and the 4 guys I met fron England who were all at least 6 feet. I felt perfectly safe despite the multitude of stares. It was fabulous.
I've got to run now and go catch the night train up to Cairo. Hopefully I will get on the right one even though my ticket is definitely written in Arabic and apparently the trains have no signs on them -- should be an adventure. But if I make it to Cairo, pyramids and camel rides tomorrow!
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
A Very Long Day
I have now been traveling for about 27 hours. I'm sitting in the Cairo airport (not a good one to be stuck in by the way) because I missed my connection to Luxor by 20 min - thanks to there ridiculously slow and round about shuttle. I am tired and I stink like European airports. I want a shower and a bed. I love traveling.
The upside - I'm here, at least almost. I've had some good practice figuring out new airports so that one day when I'm on amazing race, I'll be ready. Also my bags didn't get lost in Paris where I even got a nice little nap spralled out on the floor. I realize that's disgusting but after maybe two hours of sleep last night, I really don't care.
So only 1 more flight to go and there's someone from the hotel picking me up so I'm done figuring things out for today. Thank goodness!
Oh other randomness - I had lamb meatballs on the plane. Seems dangerous but the other option was fish and neither of those seem like safe plane food so I just went with it. If I start throwing up in the next 24 hours we'll know what it's from. Good night
The upside - I'm here, at least almost. I've had some good practice figuring out new airports so that one day when I'm on amazing race, I'll be ready. Also my bags didn't get lost in Paris where I even got a nice little nap spralled out on the floor. I realize that's disgusting but after maybe two hours of sleep last night, I really don't care.
So only 1 more flight to go and there's someone from the hotel picking me up so I'm done figuring things out for today. Thank goodness!
Oh other randomness - I had lamb meatballs on the plane. Seems dangerous but the other option was fish and neither of those seem like safe plane food so I just went with it. If I start throwing up in the next 24 hours we'll know what it's from. Good night
Monday, September 7, 2009
Leaving on a Jet Plane
After many hugs and a supportive family watching through the gate, I made it through security and am on my way. My bag weighed in at 35 lbs - not bad. Hopefully it will not get lost in the notorious Paris airport.
I made it through the first leg and am sitting here in the food court of the international terminal in Atlanta. I was pleasantly surprised by the live pianist. Then I almost started laughing when the second song she played was Leaving on a Jet Plane . . . It's almost cliché it's so perfect.
So here I am on my way - or at least I will be in six hours when my plane takes off. Next time I write to you, it'll be from the dessert of Egypt. Until then, be reckless. :)
I made it through the first leg and am sitting here in the food court of the international terminal in Atlanta. I was pleasantly surprised by the live pianist. Then I almost started laughing when the second song she played was Leaving on a Jet Plane . . . It's almost cliché it's so perfect.
So here I am on my way - or at least I will be in six hours when my plane takes off. Next time I write to you, it'll be from the dessert of Egypt. Until then, be reckless. :)
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Packing
Although I have traveled a good bit in my life, I have yet to master the art of packing. I blame this partially on the fact that I grew up with 3 sisters. When there are 5 women on a trip, some one always has whatever it is that you need so I never really worried if I had everything I would use. Secondly I blame this on the fact that I am not very organized.
The up side is that I've learned to make do without things, and I am very good at finding things that are lost. However 2 months is a long time to go without my chapstick or Q-tips. And there are somethings that you just can't or shouldn't go without.
I've spent weeks thinking through what I needed and buying things (spending way too much money). But now that it's time to actually pack, I'm staring at stacks of stuff all over my room and looking at my little backpack, wondering - How is this going to work? How am I going to live out of a backpack for 2 months? Do I have enough hand sanitizer and deodorant? Though I guess the latter doesn't really matter since I'll be in Europe (ha ha, just kidding). So now I'm sitting here blogging instead of packing because I'm just not quite sure where to start, and I'm a little afraid it's not all going to fit.
And I haven't even figured out the money situation yet -- how much of each currency will I need? How much cash should I carry? And how much in traveler's checks? Do I get a better exchange rate using my credit card? Is my identity going to get stolen? Ugh, starting to think about that makes me want to go back to packing.
Does anyone remember the Nickelodeon show Hey Dude? Yes, I am dating myself, and it is slightly embarrassing to admit that I used to watch it, but oh well. There was one episode where they had a beauty pageant and the brunette haired girl whose name I can't remember packed a suitcase for her talent. At the time I remember thinking how ridiculous that was, but perhaps I should have paid a little more attention.
The up side is that I've learned to make do without things, and I am very good at finding things that are lost. However 2 months is a long time to go without my chapstick or Q-tips. And there are somethings that you just can't or shouldn't go without.
I've spent weeks thinking through what I needed and buying things (spending way too much money). But now that it's time to actually pack, I'm staring at stacks of stuff all over my room and looking at my little backpack, wondering - How is this going to work? How am I going to live out of a backpack for 2 months? Do I have enough hand sanitizer and deodorant? Though I guess the latter doesn't really matter since I'll be in Europe (ha ha, just kidding). So now I'm sitting here blogging instead of packing because I'm just not quite sure where to start, and I'm a little afraid it's not all going to fit.
And I haven't even figured out the money situation yet -- how much of each currency will I need? How much cash should I carry? And how much in traveler's checks? Do I get a better exchange rate using my credit card? Is my identity going to get stolen? Ugh, starting to think about that makes me want to go back to packing.
Does anyone remember the Nickelodeon show Hey Dude? Yes, I am dating myself, and it is slightly embarrassing to admit that I used to watch it, but oh well. There was one episode where they had a beauty pageant and the brunette haired girl whose name I can't remember packed a suitcase for her talent. At the time I remember thinking how ridiculous that was, but perhaps I should have paid a little more attention.
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